Based on research by Sciences Po students and the analysis of two case studies (castanha oil in Brazil and argan oil in Morocco), this Issue Brief questions the relationships between the natural cosmetics sector and the local communities involved in harvesting raw materials and in biodiversity conservation. How do the companies that claim to belong to ethical biotrade structure their supplies? To what extent do the associated labels and procedures ensure biodiversity conservation and support for indigenous communities?
Key messages:
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Sales price support for a natural resource does not guarantee its conservation.
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Safeguarding communities’ land rights is a necessary but not sufficient condition to encourage them to protect a resource and to invest in its protection in the long term.
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Effective partnerships between communities and companies require cooperation with NGOs, which facilitate discussions and build capacities within the communities.
- Labels help to structure economic organisations within the communities and provide added value for companies, but in their current format, they have no significant effect on biodiversity conservation.
